Mazda FD RX-7 Haltech uC-10 dash wiring guide
- Jonathan Chow
- Jul 25, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: Aug 19, 2025
The Haltech uC-10 is a significant upgrade to the factory FD RX-7 cluster. With Haltech’s new software update enabling users to fully customise the layout, this has allowed the uC-10 to offer the best of both worlds, by replicating the factory layout for subtle street applications to custom race dash displays to aide driving.
This post will provide you with all the information for you to DIY this job; the complete wiring pinout as well as the stock FD RX-7 dash file FOR FREE. Want to support me? Please consider shouting me a coffee 🙂
Don’t want to make one for yourself? You can purchase a plug in harness from the shop.
Here is the uC-10 FD RX-7 white cluster dash file.
Let's go!
Here is the pinout. Alternatively, please view the google sheet link - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bwDbqOYugNAc9ZkKM7R2sYlKjV5GlQwye4Mwno8C3sI/edit?usp=sharing
The Haltech uC-10 connector features a 34PIN AMP 4 keyway connector, communicating with the ECU via CANBUS as well as being an I/O expander for the ECU. This means we have additional inputs and outputs which can be wired directly to uC-10 and have that streamed back to the ECU for engine management.
The FD RX-7 cluster has 4-5 connectors (depending on your model) from the dash loom which communicates warning lights, sensor data, etc and also has outputs to alternator and the ECU. So not only is the cluster providing feedback to the driver, it also handles important engine functions and removal of this without the correct re-wiring will cause issues.
The idea of this plug-in harness is to be minimally invasive with the factory wiring, not only so this is reversible but to avoid long and messy runs of cabling which i often see in both “professional” and home jobs.
You need to purchase a few parts to make the main harness:
18P Multilock 070 series housing: PN 173853-1
070 socket crimp contact: PN 175027-1 x 6 required
Deutsch DTM8 set
Deutsch DTM4 set (for button harness)
Assortment of 18-20AWG cable in different colours. Pro tip - call your local wrecker and see if they can sell you an engine harness you can harvest cable from.
Optional extras: cable braid sheathing, heat shrink, electrical fleece tape
18P Multilock (for cluster connector 1 and 4)
Crimp the 070 series contacts onto 6 cables (approx 20-25cm length). You can follow the factory wiring colours to make this neat. Following the pinout, insert these wires into the connector, paying attention to the numbers written on the connector. Lock off the connector by pushing the top and bottom tabs in place once you’ve double checked your work.
Cut your 6 wires ~20cm from the 18P, strip 3mm insulation off the end with a pair of wire strippers and crimp the AMP superseal pins (supplied in uC-10 box) to each wire.
Take the supplied uC-10 harness (HT-131001) and unlock the AMP 34pin connector. Push the large white tab into the connector to unlock this, being careful you don’t dislodge the existing pins as the connector is now “unlocked”. Following the pinout column (UC10 34P), insert your superseal pins into the AMP connector. The pin will bottom out inside the connectors and you can see this on the ECU end. You can verify by locking the AMP connector, if it does not lock, the pin is not seated.
Deutsch DTM8 (for cluster connector 2 and 3)
This connector will allow us to detach the main harness from the body of the car. We will be wiring the female side to the main harness and the male side to the vehicle.
Crimp the contacts for female connector on 6 cables (approximate length 10-15cm). Insert these pins into the female connector. You can either replicate my pinout OR assign your own order so long as the wiring ultimately terminates in the allocated pins as per the pinout. Again you need to terminate these into the AMP 34P. Cut the wires ~10cm from the deutsch at even length, strip 3mm insulation off the end with a pair of wire strippers and crimp the AMP superseal pins (supplied in uC-10 box) to each wire.
Unlock the AMP 34P again and insert the superseal pins into the AMP connector according to the pinout.
Next we will modify the wiring on the FD. By now you should have removed the factory cluster and identified cluster connectors 2 and 3. You can cross check the pinout to wiring colours on the car. On a Series 8 2001 FD JDM model, Connector 2 is BLACK, Connector 3 is WHITE. Place a large rag over the steering column to capture old foam adhesive which will be messy.
Peel back the foam insulation from the two cluster connector pigtails. I would peel it back approx 5cm so you have plenty of room to work with.
Following the pinout, cut the wires 2B, 2H, 2J, 3A, 3C, 3D approx 2cm from their connectors. Crimp on the contacts for the DTM MALE connector and insert these into connector according to the pinout. Make sure you have followed the pinout. You can now re-insulate the loom and new connector with TESA fleece tape. This tape is great for its abrasion resistance and flexibility.
Deutsch DTM4 (for button harness)
Haltech supplies a button harness for the two uC-10 buttons ready to insert the superseal pins into the uC-10’s AMP 34P. Whilst you can easily insert these straight into the AMP, we will be adding a DTM-4. First, cut off the existing ampseal pins and replace these for DTM pins for the female connector. Just like we have for the last few connectors, you will then need to add additional wiring from this junction to the uC-10. Again follow the pinout and this is all very straight forward.
At this point, you should have a complete harness. Plug this in and test. With the accessory reds switched on, you will need to individually assign each AVI input according to the function. AVI sensors are simple electrical inputs that can accept a continuously variable voltage signal. IE. at a specific voltage will correlate to a condition like 2.3v = 90 degrees coolant temp (example). This will take some time to configure and i recommend getting a professional to sort this out for you.
Additional notes:
Vehicle speed sensor - The factory cluster converts the VSS signal into a digital square wave and sends it to the ECU. Since the cluster is removed, this will now need to be wired to the dash or ECU. My pinout connects the two VSS wires to the dash (signal and ground reference) which is then streamed back to the ECU via can-bus. You will not need an external convertor box and this is something you will need your tuner to help configure.
Alternator excite - this is required when removing the factory cluster. The alternator excite wire provides an initial current to the alternator, to initiate charge when the engine is running. This will need to be switched on in the Haltech NSP settings and please check your voltage whilst the engine is running. If the alternator excite wire is not hooked up or configured properly, the voltage will continue to drop and may cause harm to the electrical system.
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